"If you can't go to Paris, Paris comes to you"

     WHAT WITH ONE THING AND ANOTHER, my life long yearning to visit Paris, the Mecca of the epicurean universe, remains unfulfilled to date.

     Most people I know who have firsthand experience tell me that compared to restaurants here on the West Coast, those in Paris are generally highly over-rated, overpriced, and the service frequently disdainful. But that's a small comfort to this "stovetop traveller;" I want to find out for myself. And I hope it will be on a par with dinner at the recently opened Restaurant Matisse.

     Strains of Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf waft through the intimate dining room. Walls are bathed in a soft golden light emanating from elegant glass lanterns, wineglass stems and deep yellow mantles. Matisse prints adorn the walls, adding interest without clutter, and fresh flowers at each table set with elegant Villeroy and Bosch porcelain presage a meticulous attention to detail that extends to the kitchen.

     The menu offers updated classics such as Escargots with Wild Mushrooms in a garlic-thyme reduction. Capped by a pastry puff so light it could float the Titanic, this rich appetizer tastes of the Earth and is ompletely in sync with the winter season.

     Similarly appropriate for this time of year, the Mousseline de Foie, served in the mould with grilled-toast points and greens on the side, is like a fluffy liver pate, its hallmark bitterness smoothed away by the inclusion of whipped cream.

     The Lobster Bisque, finished with cream and Cognac, tastes bold and hearty, and is garnished with the diced shellfish. It has body without being thick. The only starter to disappoint was the Endive with Lardons - bacon bits- and Garlic Crouton salad. The leaf taste dominated a too subtle vinaigrette and the croutons were tough rather than crunchy. The portion size was also a tad too subtle for the price.

     A uniquely Matissian offering is the Chfibless Dinner. It's appellation is a contraction of "Chicken, Fish and Beefless," and it's the only purely vegetarian selection offered. The Filet de Boeuf, a thick mignon, is served with a deep rich jus touched with gorgonzola, which avoids becoming chi­chi because the flavours make such magic together. Fresh Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb also benefits from a luscious jus, but this one is brushed with a trace of mint. Most elaborate, the Duck Palette's skin is removed, julienned, and rendered into crackling. The breast is cooked medium rare, the drumstick until crispy on the outside, and the rest of the meat is ground with a touch of ginger and onion, made into a "fritter" patty before being served with sour cherry sauce garnished with the crackling.

     The Crème Brulee was simply beautiful. No wimpy fragile crust that dissolves before you can shatter it; this one resisted advances just enough to let you know it was good but not easy. Ice cream is made in house and presented within a delicate spun sugar fence.

     When sweets don't appeal, the cheese plate with fresh fruit is a sumptuous way to finish off the meal, especially with a glass of port. At present, the regular wine list is still somewhat compact, but if your purse allows, the reserve wine list has some gems for oenophiles.

Lee Crossley, Restaurant Reviewer for the Victoria Times/Colonist